Ahhhhh France! There isn’t much to dislike in this idyllic part of the world where you can catch waves and at the same time have a gastro experience like no other. This becomes quite evident when doing so on the Basque Coast, a gorgeous stretch of beach that runs along the Atlantic coast of France and Spain. It’s striking cliffs and outcroppings give way to vivid blue water and stunning beaches perfect for surfing, sunbathing, and many other water sports. There are many beaches to choose from, some more tranquil and others, like Biarritz, offer a posh, but also emerging chic bohemian scene.
If you have never surfed in France, you should definitely check out Biarritz on the Southwest coast (8 km from Bayonne and 22 km from the Spanish border). This surfing mecca on the Basque coast emerged around 1957, when the surfing world was introduced to its waves by American screenwriter Peter Viertel. Although it burst onto the scene in 1957, its surfing history actually goes back much further among its local population. Individuals used to surf the Biarritz waves on palm fronds–can you imagine?? Throughout history Biarritz has been a getaway for royalty and many famous writers, including Ernest Hemingway.
The great thing about surfing in Biarritz is that you can do it year-round. There is such a wide variety of waves and conditions– there is something for surfers of all abilities. In fact, it’s often referred to as the “surfing capital” of Europe, and many world surfing championships have been held there. There are six different beaches in Biarritz, with the most famous being the La Côte des Basques. La Grande Plage is also a popular spot for its hollow waves. Many of the beaches are accessible via bus, and they do allow surf boards on the bus (as long as they aren’t too big!).
Biarritz has a definite gypset vibe. It’s scene is full of surfing, fashion, art — a very bohemian environment. Some have referred to Biarritz as the “French California.” It is starting to replace St. Tropez as the “in” beach destination in France. The town is filled with fab little restaurants and boutiques, all of which reflect its bon vivant character.
You will want to bring a wetsuit for surfing in Biarritz during the winter months, since the water can be quite chilly. However, it warms up nicely and is about 23 degrees Celsius right now (75 degrees Farenheit). If it’s windy in the summer months (which it often is!), pack a 3/2mm wetsuit. In the winter months, you will definitely want a 5/4mm or a 5/3mm wetsuit with gloves and booties. A hood will come in handy on windy winter days.
To travel to Biarritz by air, you will fly into the Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne International Airport. You can also reach the town via train from Paris and via bus from Bayonne, Anglet, Pau, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, or Hendaye. There are also twice-daily buses from Spain on PESA.
One of the best places to stay on the Basque Coast if you want to learn to surf or just improve your skills is the Natural Surf Lodge. The main building is a 300 year old farm house. It’s an environmentally friendly lodging option, with low emission surf vans, recycling, and composting initiatives. The Lodge is within walking distance of the Etang Blanc nature reserve and is run by surfers for surfers, and you are a short trip from the Seignosse and Hossegor breaks. For more info on packages and rates at the Natural Surf Lodge, click HERE.
Another great lodging option is the ultra-hip boutique hotel Villa Arguibel in Guethary. With rolling pastures and sheep grazing outside your door you your feel transported to the Swiss Alps.
The boutique hotel Arguibel
Arguibel
There are many fab spots to eat in Biarritz including the Ventilo Caffé. The decor is very bohemian, and it serves a great pre-surf breakfast and espresso or a late lunch after a day at the beach. It’s also the perfect spot to mingle with the locals.
The Milwaukee Cafe is also a place you don’t want to miss! There are now two Milwaukee Cafe locations– one in the Biarrtiz food market and the flagship downtown location that offers an expanded menu. You will find a great cup of coffee and a dessert to satisfy any sweet tooth, in addition to a fruit and vegetable juice bar! At the downtown location, you can also snack on sandwiches and salads after a day at the beach. Viva la France!
