A few weeks ago, while in Turkey, I discovered the AMAZING jewelry designer Sevan Bicakci through my stylish Turkish and Jordanian friends Esra and Hanai. Bicakci’s pieces celebrate the Ottoman and Byzantine heritage of the region, and they are stunningly beautiful. In fact, he is often referred to as the “King of Rings.”
I was so fortunate to have had the opportunity of a private showing of these brilliant jewels with the very charming Herman Bicakci, who works closely with Sevan and is a wealth of information about this unique jewelry and it’s meanings.
SevanĀ began anĀ apprenticeship underĀ Hovak Catap (a relative who was also a goldsmith) at the tender age of 12, and it wasn’t long before he was creating his own masterpieces– many of which you will see on celebrities like Catherine Zeta-Jones, Elizabeth Hurley, Liv Tyler, Lady Gaga and many others.
Sevan opened his own workshop at the age of eighteen. When you visit the BicakciĀ atelier near the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, you will find a wide variety of rings, bracelets, and earrings. Some of his most famous pieces are his dome-shaped rings that resemble the intricately designed and decorated mosques and churches located nearby.
The intricacy and detail in his jewelry is truly remarkable. One look at his popular Haghia Sophia rings, and you will wonder how one earth he was able to get so much detail intoĀ a ring! How does Bicakci manage to create such detail in the gem stones he uses? He actually uses dental tools to carve into semi-precious gem stones like aquamarine and citrine– a technique calledĀ inverse intaglio. It’s a high risk process, since the stones will sometimes break– but the finished product is worth the wait!
The tremendous amount of time and detail it takes to create his pieces is reflected in the fact that he produces only 500 pieces a year, all one of a kind. Since he does not take commissions, you will need to seek out his pieces in his own shops or the handful of other stores where they can be purchased including Barneys, Twist Online, and the Talisman Gallery (London).